Got a friend who goes to Bali every year, she loves it so much XD
I've been a few times in the far distant past, including to some slightly less touristy places (my parents were never the "lounge around the hotel pool" type XD), can see why some people would think it's "scummy" (being a massive tourist trap could probably do that to a place). I remember each trip to have been pretty interesting and educational.
i can see why they think it might be scummy but keeping in mind its pretty poverty-stricken its an awesome place.