Summer travel in New England is lovely and necessary, but it’s hardly stress-free. There’s the traffic, the high-season lodging rates, the fanny-packed tourists, the undisciplined children, the occasional shark attack... Autumn travel is frankly where it’s at. We've rounded up and updated our favorite summer spots that actually peak in fall below -- now with even more spots to hit. Cash in one of your personal days and invest in a long weekend that might actually reset your system.
Portland
The foodie capital of New England is everything you’ve read about and more -- but for those summer wait times. We’ve cooled our heels for hours just to get our paws on Eventide’s brown butter lobster roll or Duckfat’s fries. And that’s not even touching on all the new places that opened late this summer and became the latest elusive golden tickets. Eaters, now is your moment.
Where to stay: Chic boutique spot The Press Hotel is still a splurge, but a little more accessible now that the leaves have started to turn. Ditto to the spectacular (and dog-friendly!) Inn by the Sea, just a bit out of town. For more bohemian visitors, the funky Pomegranate Inn is a dreamy, artsy-chic respite that also includes gas fireplaces in some of the rooms.
What to do: We’ll get to the food in a second. But first: Odyssey Whale Watches happen through mid-October, the Casco Bay Lines ferry can whisk you over to Peaks’ Island for a leisurely bike ride (the island is far more sedate in fall), and an inimitable foliage hike through nearby Bradbury Mountain State Park justifies later indulgences. For food and drink, Harvest on the Harbor is the festival that’ll make you consider a move north. Blyth & Burrows, the new craft cocktail bar that opened this summer, has debuted fall drinks like the Winslow Homer (brown butter washed rum, apple juice, pear puree, chili-cinnamon syrup, hot pepper bitters). Other super-exciting super-newcomers include Roma Cafe, Little Giant, and the just-opened The Shop from our Island Creek Oyster buddies. Just don’t roll into the harbor when you’re done indulging.
Wellfleet
Bivalve connoisseurs were crushed last October when the Cape Cod town’s famed Oysterfest got cancelled at the last minute on account of norovirus (C’mon, really?). But this year it’s back, which means bigger crowds and an even more urgent need to party. Plus, fall means no more beach-sticker agony -- you’re free to park and then sink your toes anywhere you wish (although leashed dogs face stricter guidelines).
Where to stay: The Wagner at Duck Creek is a still-evolving boutique hotel, now open year-round, that combines classic Cape comforts with some higher-end touches. The Holden Inn, a no-frills but charming throwback in the middle of town, is open until November 1.
What to do: Well, the oysterfest, duh, which also includes a 5K race, games, art, live music, and drinks aplenty. Nearby Truro Vineyards actually stays open year-round for tastings. And while some beloved dining institutions like The Beachcomber close right after Labor Day, Mac’s Shack stays open through the end of October, the must-try prix-fixe Ceraldi seats diners through October 14, and spots like The Bookstore and Restaurant stay open year-round
Bristol, Rhode Island
Gloriously overrun in the summer (they have the oldest Fourth of July fest in the nation and attract every haughty yacht aficionado in a 100-mile radius), Bristol is chill and lovely in the fall -- an urban spot that still fulfills all your fall foliage needs.
Where to stay: The Bristol Harbor Inn, which truly sits atop the harbor, just got a massive makeover and puts you within walking distance of many attractions. For a taste of the Gatsby life, book your waterview room at the Point Pleasant Inn, a former mansion with a massive lawn stretching right to the edge of Narragansett Bay that stays open through the end of October. (Ask about the open bar.)
What to do: A kayak tour of the bay is the more serene way to take in the changing leaves of Colt State Park; a less-sweaty ride up the East Bay Bike Path could take you all the way to Providence if you so choose. Bristol is full of historic homes, including the glorious Blithewold estate, which hosts stargazing bonfires and gardening events. Mount Hope Farm is the Plimouth Plantation of Southern New England and hosts a Farm Fest at the end of October. And don’t skip the dining scene: waterside seafood institution and quahog resource Quito’s is open through November, The Lobster Pot is open year-round, and Beehive Cafe gives you those maple bacon pancakes you so richly deserve.
Ogunquit
Truly one of the most beautiful walking trails in all of New England, Marginal Way, Ogunquit, deserves its proper due when the crowds have thinned and the autumn light casts a singular glow on the smooth rocks just offshore.
Where to stay: The Cliff House is your splurge. The reimagined cliffside resort is now fully operational, and fall is perhaps its defining epoch: s’mores at the firepits, seasonally inspired meals at The Tiller, treatments at the 9,000-square-foot spa on rainy days, and the new suites that hang over the Atlantic and include soaking tubs and multiple terraces. For those looking for a bit more savings, the Meadowmere Resort places you just a few blocks away from the water and offers some great fall specials.
What to do: The best restaurant in town, MC Perkins Cove, opened up a new outdoor back deck this spring with views are simply beyond; it’s open for bookings through the end of October, and a happy hour just launched out there this week. The Ogunquit Museum is the most beautiful gallery you’ve never visited; check out the Hemingway-inspired exhibit this fall. The Front Porch is even more charming when you’re not fighting for a bar seat. And at the famed Footbridge Beach, the autumn colors reflect onto the water surface. Don’t Instagram it, just appreciate it. (Also, don’t get swept away during the high tide, as we nearly did one late-autumn eve.)
Salem
Here's an almost-staycation. When’s the last time you actually explored this gorgeous and historic seaside town anyway, Halloween notwithstanding? And why are the city’s most exciting chefs opening up restaurants here? And did you know that Boston Harbor Cruises can whisk you out there in under an hour on its fast Salem Ferry through the end of October?
Where to stay: We’re so, so excited about the opening of The Hotel Salem that we’re hyping it before it opens (they’re taking reservations now). The full restaurant and bar rooftop deck alone is what we’re itching for. In the meantime, there’s the equally alluring The Merchant, a spicy, centrally located blend of old and new design, including amazing wood work and heated bathroom floors.
What to do: Walk, first off, and reacquaint yourself with the area’s history and architecture (just try to stay off your Trulia app while you do it). The Peabody Essex Museum has already launched an exhibit of classic horror and sci-fi art; take it in now before the masked masses start descending. But then it’s time to eat: The Ledger for progressive, high-end American in a gothic space, and Bit Bar for raucous snacks in a classic arcade setting.
Nantucket
Summertime in Nantucket has gotten a little nuts. Sometime in the last few years, the island went from low-key retreat to popped-collar party central. But post-Labor Day, the isle resets to its original pleasures, like bucolic beaches and accessible, first-rate restaurants.
Where to stay: 21 Broad grants you Downtown walking access and an autumn-ready fire pit out back; it also has a cool midweek deal this month. The Nantucket Hotel & Resort, a rare year-round resort, fully embraces the season with fire pit fondue, a hot cocktail hour, and an inviting hot tub.
What to do: Bike to Siasconset Beach without fear of a rental Jeep plowing you down, then call for reservations at Straight Wharf or Topper’s without fear of being laughed at. Do the indoor things you’d never bother with in summer, like catch a movie at Starlight Theatre, or peruse the Shipwreck & Lifesaving Museum and Whaling Museum (they’re both pretty cool!). Luxuriate at an actual table at Cisco Brewers and Instagram the Sankaty Head Light against a fall sunset. Reserve a JetBlue flight without fainting from the indulgence of it all (seriously, price it against ferry + gas + parking).
Provincetown
The entirety of the Cape is a revelation in fall: relatively sane bridge traffic, normal pedestrian traffic, zero Bugaboo traffic. And P-town is the peak of the off-peak destinations: The restaurants and bars are accessible, the shop owners can stop and chat, and the dunes are gorgeous in the autumn light. And as a little birdie pointed out to us, prices start dropping in all your favorite Commercial St. boutiques, which usually go into fire-sale mode in October.
Where to stay: Now’s the time to rent that waterside Airbnb cottage you can’t even pretend to swing in July.
What to do: Plan a visit around Cape Cod Restaurant Week, or just book a last-minute table at Jimmy’s HideAway and then brag about it online. Check out the fall lineup at the Provincetown Theater (the Tennessee Williams Festival, who knew?). Start sewing your costume for Spooky Bear Weekend (yay). Drive down the coast to Truro Vineyards for the annual Grape Stomp on September 18th or the Vinegrass Music Festival on October 2nd. Drive further afield for the Wellfleet OysterFest in mid-October (Ocean Edge also offers a whole package around the oysterfest).
Martha’s Vineyard
The Aquinnah sunsets are epic this time of year, and this place is also seriously QUI-ET in the fall. Year-rounders exhale and take some time to smell the wildflowers, and the biking vistas are genuinely gorgeous -- all rolling hills and burnt-ember foliage.
Where to stay: Two of the island’s newest hotels -- Summercamp and The Christopher -- are both seasonal, closing at the end of October, which means there are some excellent room deals, especially at Summercamp.
What to do: Throw your rod in the ring for The Derby (or cheer the catches of those that do), or drink like a Desperate Housewife at the Food & Wine Festival. Go birding at Felix Neck and take a late-season tour with Island Spirit Kayak (they run through October) or a guided wildlife refuge tour with the Trustees. If you’re around in November, take any and every opportunity to gorge yourself on in-season bay scallops.
Kennebunk
Fall foliage starts north and creeps south, which means your earliest doses of crimson leaf tides are happening in Maine, so you can hit up both Kennebunk and Kennebunkport early for that double New England whammy: waterside leaf-peeping. Plus, The Clam Shack stays open until mid-October, when the lines become considerably less terrible than they are mid-summer.
Where to stay: The entire Kennebunkport Resort Collection, including beachside boutique lovely Tides Beach Club, lowers its prices considerably and offers a third night free on a two-night stay at all of its hotels.
What to do: Drive along Goose Rocks Beach and hike the Eastern Trail in Arundel. It’s probably time to start fasting for Coastal Maine Restaurant Week (October 21-28), and get super seasonal at the Kennebunk HarvestFest. Day-drink with locals at David’s KPT (inside The Boathouse) while gazing out at the water.
Kennebunkport
OK, technically we've addressed Kennebunk, but Kennebunkport is truly its own entity. It’s a walking town right on the water, and once the tourists clear out it’s also one of the loveliest New England spots to decompress for a day or weekend.
Where to stay: It’s glamping time, baby! Do it and do it now: Sandy Pines Campground is open through Columbus Day and has a three-for-two booking deal going on. For indoor folks, the intimate Captain Fairfield Inn bed and breakfast grants you the best of both worlds: lush, funky decor and a fire pit out back during the chilly evenings.
What to do: Drive Goose Rocks Road starting at the Log Cabin Road side for some carside leaf-peeping. Bike over to The Tides Inn for a front deck cocktail. Hit up Kennebunkport Brewing Co. for an additional afternoon ale. But save room for an epic, Latin-inspired meal at Toroso (technically located in Kennebunk) from James Beard-winner Shannon Beard -- you might actually get in! Before heading out of town, grab a glorious, farm-fueled brunch at Musette.
Stowe
It’s fall in Vermont, folks. It doesn’t get any better than that.
Where to stay: Indulge in fireside tubs and fireplace butlers at Edson Hill, or check out Field Guide -- their pool is open through September, and their restaurant, Picnic Social, does outdoor fireside seating. Stowe Mountain Lodge keeps its heated pool open all year round (hot tubs too), and can set you up on a ziplining trip through the fall foliage.
What to do: Splurge for dinner at Hen of the Woods in Waterbury, one of the best restaurants in New England, and drink under the leaves at Idletyme Brewing’s outdoor bar (mix in a little cornhole while you’re at it). You can sample dry hard cider in the Stowe Cider tasting room, or hit up the Boyden Valley Winery Harvest Festival (September 17-18). Buy some Barr Hill gin directly from the purveyors at the Stowe Farmers' Market, then drive Smugglers' Notch before it closes for the season. Even if you don’t stay there, spa it up at Stowe Mountain Lodge -- the lounge area offers crazy-cool views of the nearby Mt. Mansfield.
Newport
Newport is another New England beaut that becomes far less lovely when you’re doing a conga line down the Cliff Walk. Wait until the masses dissipate, and the whole area becomes hella more appealing.
Where to stay: The Attwater is the perfect city getaway: an urban boutique hotel just far enough removed from the Downtown bustle. Or go completely nuts and splurge for a night at Castle Hill Inn -- the bonfire and s’mores continue through the end of September.
What to do: Hit up the jazz brunch at Ocean House, giggle at the mix of boat shoes and lederhosen at the International Oktoberfest, or take a schooner cruise of the harbor. Take your last dip of the season at Easton’s Beach, then get fried clams at Flo’s. If you want the full Bowen’s Wharf experience, get drinks at Wharf Pub before dinner at Fluke.
Chebeague Island
There’s actually no bad time to escape to Chebeague, one of Maine’s loveliest islands, but locals know that September is the island’s peak time. The summer crowds go away, and the foliage is already beginning to peek through. The crisper evenings demand bonfires and s’mores, and best of all, the water is downright temperate -- the warmest it will be all year.
Where to stay: Chebeague Island Inn (open through October 15) is the only game in town; good thing this grand hotel is one of the loveliest places you’ll stay in your lifetime. Simply appointed rooms, a grand fireplace in the main room with board games aplenty, a wraparound porch facing the sunset, nary a TV to be found... you’re forced to do that relaxing thing.
What to do: Bike the circumference of the island -- the inn lets you borrow bikes for free -- and wave at everyone you pass, because they’ll wave at you. Grab lunch at the Ebb & Thyme Bakery & Cafe, and make sure you walk over to Little Chebeague island when the tide is out. Take a late-afternoon dip at Hamilton Beach when the tide comes back in (the inn will set up chairs for you). Savor the surf and turf at the inn’s award-winning restaurant, which sources many ingredients from the island’s only farm.
Boston
Wait, what? Yes, here's a full staycation, because Boston is actually pretty grand in the fall, but sometimes you have to approach it like an outsider to appreciate its gifts.
Where to stay: The Boston Harbor Hotel is one of those hospitality stalwarts we take for granted, even as the decade-old hotel has graced us with free summer movies and concerts and wintertime ice skating. As a waterside locale combined with amenities like in-room bartending services... we’re extremely down. The Envoy is another great bet -- nautically styled rooms, water views, and first-dibs access to the hotel’s rooftop bar (or Barking Crab down below if the crowds get too nuts). And if you’re craving a deep autumn experience, the fireplace butlers at the Taj Boston are at your service.
What to do: Why, we have a whole list for ya -- everything from free movie nights to fluff festivals!.
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Love the mention of Ptown! Well done.