Exhausted, freezing and aching, I collapsed onto the snowy mountainside. A simple sip of hot tea had never tasted so good.
I had made it – 5,416 metres, 10 days of hiking through some of the most beautiful, and challenging landscape I had ever set foot on. Here I was, the summit of the Thorong –la-pass on the mighty Annapurna circuit.
I never expected to be here. I reluctantly climbed my first mountain only a few years ago, complaining for the first day that I hated hiking and didn’t see the point (you can see all of the same landscape out of a car window can’t you?! )
Two days into that trek I fell in love - with the freedom, with the endless open landscapes and mountains, the changing colours in the sky, the fact I didn’t see another human for a day at a time, that deeply satisfied sleep that only comes from absolute physical exhaustion.
Fast-forward to a year later and here’s how my thought process went:
“I want to go on an adventure…”
“Hmm, nobody I know wants to go with me…”
“I couldn’t do it alone though… could I?!”
Books flight
I definitely didn’t regret it…
The rest was the easy bit. Once I had landed in Kathmandu I took a tourist bus the next day to Nepal’s second largest city, and the setting off point for the Annapurna circuit –Pokhara.
I made friends quickly, and spent five lazy days by the lakeside in Pokhara, relaxing in the cafes and restaurants, taking a paddle boat over to the peace pagoda and preparing myself for the big expedition.
The Mighty Annapurna Circuit
Soon the day arrived to set off towards the snow-capped peaks of the Annapurna’s and so I jumped on an early morning tourist bus, dropping us at a town called Besi Sahar. For many, this is the start of the trek but it requires 4 hours of walking mainly along a roadside, so I decided to skip it and go straight to the town of Ngadi.
The next 10 days consisted of an average of 5-6 hours of walking a day through the most spectacular scenery I have ever seen. Staying in brightly coloured village guest houses perched atop valleys, or nestled into hillsides. Satisfied exhaustion as I took delight munching on a well deserved momo dinner, and drinking down hot lemon and ginger teas. Every few hours of walking, every turn in the track revealed new landscapes, colours and vegetation. From the lower lying grass valleys following the path up jagged cliff edges falling down to the burbling streams below.
As I climbed higher, my limbs became stronger, and alpine forests began to emerge covering the surrounding peaks with a thick carpet of dense green. Piles of snow by their feet signalled that spring hadn’t quite arrived yet. Spindly but sturdy metal rope bridges connect the valleys as you ascend into the gods, testing your wobbling legs as the mountain air hits your face.
The final few days of the trek are the most exciting and arduous. By now, you feel fit and ready for the challenge, but the altitude is weighing you down. After a few days of necessary acclimatisation in the town of Manang (3520m), you begin to head towards the fabled Thorong-La-Pass.
The temperature drops and the scenery becomes more stark as you climb the final few thousand metres. Two days, and one more guest house later, and you reach base camp for the pass – Thorung Phedi. You can also stay 500m higher at Thorung High camp to save the morning climb, but the altitude makes it all but impossible to sleep!
The day of crossing the pass, you awake early and do the first part of the trek in the dark. As perilous as this seemed (following a string of flashlights up a steep mountain side), it was essential with three foot of snow on the ground threatening to melt in the midday sun.
Four hours of trudging, and several false peaks later, and there I was at the highest point I had ever, higher than most humans have ever been, with a big fat smile on my face!
After an even longer and more difficult walk down the pass (they don’t warn you about that!), I rested in a guest house that could only be described as an oasis. Enjoying much deserved hot showers, cold beers and delicious food, I flicked through my photos of the last 10 days – how right I was to book that flight…
The Route
There are many different ways of doing the trek depending on the pace you want, but on the advice of an experienced trekker, this is the 10 days route that I took, and the villages I stayed at along the way.
Ngadi - Jagat- Tal – Chame – Upper Pisang – Gyaru – Manang (2 nights) – Yak Kharka – Thorung High Camp- Muktinath
You can continue the route onwards from Muktinath but as it was alongside a dusty road, I opted for a tourist bus back to Pokhara.
My Top Tips for a Solo Trek in Nepal
• Ask for Advice
Much of the online research I did about this trek was redundant when I arrived e.g the ‘spring’ weather was in fact snow, and minus temperatures requiring me to buy a whole new trekking wardrobe or freeze my finger tips off.
I highly recommend asking for advice- from trekking/tour shops, or from trekkers who have recently done the route themselves. Information changes all the time, so the best way to find out what you need to know is to ask the locals.
• Go at Your Own Pace
The length of time the trek takes completely depends on how long you want it to take. A 10 day trek worked out as an average of around 6 hours a day (some days more, some days less), you can do it quicker or slower depending on how fit you are and how much time you want to spend in each place. It is highly advised that you spend at least 2 nights in Manang to let your body acclimatise and recover for the final ascent over the pass.
• Listen to Your Body
When you climb over 3,000 metres your body can covert 40% less oxygen than at sea level. This makes walking for 10 minutes feel more like an hour, and altitude sickness becomes a real danger. Acclimatisation, drinking lots of water and getting enough sleep are all essential for keeping yourself safe on the mountain. If you’re feeling unusually fatigued or have a constant headache you should take an extra day of rest, and if symptoms don’t improve then begin to descend. Altitude sickness can be a serious danger when trekking at altitude, so it’s important to listen to your body and look after yourself.
Most importantly – enjoy it! Breathe in that mountain air, stop regularly and take in those unbelievable vistas. This is a once in a lifetime trip for most people, so absorb every second of the incredible journey.
Oh really . Little money and a lot of will
you can do it
Life invites you to feel it .. Why not
Wonderful work .. Amazing photos
Amazing! As a solo traveler myself I comment in solidarity but, I stand in awe of your bravery to pursue such a feat of trekking in Nepal solo! I live in Sonoma, California, where many Sherpas live, a few who have summited Mt. Everest!
What do you think of the ban on solo trekking of Mt. Everest?
Thanks for this cool post! 🌄
@sarahvain thank you! It is actually much easier than it sounds - you meet people along the route and you're never more than a couple of hours walk from the next village! Although i've not been, i've heard that the Everest base camp trek is similar to the Annapurna trek in terms of towns being along the route so I don't see why you would NEED a guide for it, I think its more a way to make sure that the tour guides and companies are making money to be honest! Of course for the summit, you do need help but that is waaaay beyond the realms of what i would consider!
Really cool. I've talked about going with some Sherpa friends, we'll see. Everest doesn't interest me much, especially having made Sherpa friends who find great frustration now in the onslaught of tourists and trash left behind their sacred mountain. And yes, a guide is because of $$ :)
Inspiring, again, thank you!
I agree, I’m in Pokhara now. You don’t need a guide for the circuit. I’ve heard stories of an awkward two weeks if you don’t match well with them as well. I think the Everest ban is for summiting and not base camp. I could easily be wrong. Anyway, plenty of people do ABC solo, and some that got guides regretted it.
It's always badass to see women travelling solo! You're an inspiration to me especially since I love outdoor adventures. I personally would be a bit nervous to trek up the mountains alone... so you command my respect for following your heart.
Love your work , keep sharing these experiences. I hope one day I can afford the airfare to visit Nepal!
Wow thanks for sharing this post. I'm actually feeling inspired to climb a mountain now. I imagine a trek like that would give you a great sense of achievement. Loved the photos from along the trek.
@feedmylife thank you! Do it! Although its really difficult at certain points, you never sleep better than when you've walked 8 hours at altitude - amazing sense of achievement!
Hi! I’m sitting at the White Rabbit Coffee Shop in Pokhara at this very moment. I finished the short trek three days ago, the Poon Hill Loop. I didn’t come prepared to trek so I took the short one. I’ll be back for ABC next year. You’re right, it’s just stunning, invigorating, and addictive. I’m glad I did the short one though. My knees and calves gave out on the steps that go down the hill by the third day. I could barely walk. I’ll come back in better shape. There’s so much to see in Nepal I never want to leave. I leave for Chitwan tomorrow. Happy you had such a great journey, beautiful life experience!
@travelman wow, have an amazing time in Chitwan! Unfortunately I didn't get time to go there on my trip but i've heard its beautiful. Ah yes I've heard the ABC is quite tough but worthwhile! Happy trekking and say hello to Nepal for me!
What a great post. I can't say climbing mountains is my thing either, but who knows, maybe one I'll change my mind like you did.
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Thank you @choogirl do it- you won't regret it I promise! I've added it to the map - thanks for your help :)
Yes indeed i totally agree. I did quite a lot of solo travel and hike previously and it gives a very different experience during the whole journey - the people you meet along the way, the stories you shares with others and the process of getting to know oneself. WHo knows i may see u in some mountains somewhere in the world ;)
@carmenraec I think it is a very personal thing that you don't get when you plan a trip with another person. Yes - I hope to see you up there :)
yeah. it is. Keep the hike going! ;)
The scenery is beautiful, I love it. Thank you for sharing.
Love from Nepal. Happy to know that you have wonderful experience. :)
Beautiful country - I would love to go back one day!
Awesome this place connect spirituality, history, nature, adventure. What a fantastic trip you made...
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Thanks for the mention @bitgeek! Totally psyched that my article was that popular- more to come!
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La belleza de Nepal es inigualable. A pesar de que tienen problemas fronterizos con China y la India.
Suerte!
Heya, just swinging by to let you know you're being featured in our Daily Travel Digest!
I tend to go on my travels quite impulsively as well, looks like you had one hell of an adventure!
Awesome post and pictures. I would love to visit Nepal someday but at the moment I am in Europe (I blog about travel too) I have started following you. Looking forward to your future posts. :)
Thank you for presenting your experience in Nepal with beautiful words. Loads of Love from Nepal.
Hope this post will attract adventure seekers to Nepal.
I suggest you to try paragliding in Pokhera.
I hope so too - definitely one of the most beautiful countries I have had the opportunity to visit!
Are you still in Nepal?
Great Friend ! We always welcome foreigners in our country and if you need any help from us you can contact us !