耶路撒冷：折叠的史书在忐忑中打开(二)|Jerusalem: The Folded History Book Opens in the Wailing (2)

四、沧桑老街上的市井烟火
Fourth, the vicissitudes of life on the streets of fireworks

我们在沧桑的老城穿行，感觉像是翻阅一本活着的立体历史教科书。
耶路撒冷老城近似四边形，是大卫王所筑的城池的延续，但因战火频起，历经兴废，先后重修18次之多。
We walk in the vicissitudes of the old city, feels like reading a living three-dimensional history textbook.The approximate quadrangular shape of the Old City of Jerusalem is a continuation of the city built by King David, but it has been rebuilt 18 times in succession as a result of the war.

这座宗教气氛浓重的老城，对于我等“外来人员”，展现在可见“页面”上的，首先是日常生活，是市井烟火。
The old religious city is a celebration of daily life for those who are waiting for "outsiders" to show on the visible "pages."

这个农业发达的国度，哪怕是处在四面沙漠包围之中，也从不缺乏“舌尖上的享受”。
The developed country of agriculture, even in the surrounded by deserts, never lacked the "enjoyment of the tongue."

入了以色列国籍的孩子们，即使非犹太人，也能接受到系统的教育。
孩子们欢声、笑语、轻快的脚步声，交织着历史的回声，让人难以分辨哪一个声音更真实。
Children who have entered Israel's nationality receive systematic education, even among non-Jews.Kids cheer, laughter, brisk footsteps and intertwined echoes of history, making it hard to tell which one is more real.

当年耶稣蒙难的老街上，孩子们的淘气，轻松地打破了肃穆沉重的气氛。
经过两千多年的变迁，阿拉伯人成为耶路撒冷的主要居民。但自近代以来，犹太人又陆续迁入。第二次世界大战结束后，联合国通过决议，巴勒斯坦地区阿、以分治。1948年以色列建国，第一次阿以战争同时爆发。战后，耶路撒冷分东西两区，以色列占有西区，约旦控制东区。
On the streets where Jesus was wrecked, the naughty children easily broke the solemn and heavy atmosphere.After more than two thousand years of change, the Arabs became the main inhabitants of Jerusalem.But since the modern times, the Jews have gradually moved in.After the end of World War II, the United Nations passed a resolution to partition Palestine.Israel was founded in 1948 and the first Arab-Israeli war broke out at the same time.After the war, Jerusalem was divided into two regions: Israel occupied the West and Jordan controlled the East.

花季少女的笑颜，与街巷里沧桑陈旧的气氛形成了鲜明的对比。
1967年第三次阿以战争爆发，以色列进占耶路撒冷东区。随后以色列议会通过法案，定耶路撒冷为以色列“永恒的和不可分割的”首都。国际社会对此一直表示谴责。近来，好事的美国总统则宣布承认并将搬迁大使馆到耶路撒冷，再次引起全世界的忐忑。
Young girl's smile, and the streets in the vicissitudes of old fashioned a sharp contrast.The third Arab-Israeli war broke out in 1967, with Israel occupying the eastern part of Jerusalem.Subsequently, the Knesset passed a bill establishing Jerusalem as the "eternal and indivisible" capital of Israel.The international community has always condemned this.Recently, the good president of the United States announced that it will recognize and will relocate the embassy to Jerusalem, once again causing all the world's shackles.

走在当年耶稣赴刑的“苦路”上，会遇见14站受苦之处。
这是鞭笞教堂。教堂门上的雕刻代表荆棘，表示为羞辱耶稣而给他戴上的荆棘王冠。
但是，这些跟所有的孩子们都有关系吗？
When walking in the "bitter road" where Jesus went to jail for the year, he will meet 14 suffering places.This is a whipped churches.The carvings on the church door represent thorns, representing the Crown of Thorns worn to shame Jesus.But are these related to all children?

在这条路上来来往往的不同信仰的人们，对于这段折叠在两千年前的往事，有的数典追宗神情肃穆，有的则轻松路过完全无感。
People of different faiths coming and going on this road, for some of the events that were folded two thousand years ago, were chastened by some dignitaries, while others passed by without any feeling.

现实的生活才是应该费心操劳的事。
只要脚下的路面是平实的，我的宝宝可以安宁地路过，那么石板之下曾经的坎坷，就不想去纠结。
Real life is something that should be bothered.As long as the foot of the road is smooth, my baby can pass by quietly, then under the rough stone once, do not want to tangle.

来到了犹太区，街区非常干净，沙漠黄的石头墙面老房子，石板路被磨得溜光，地面上看不到一点垃圾，也看不到清洁工。但是在整洁的路面下，说不定就是某个古建筑的废墟。
建了被毁，毁了又建的教堂、宫殿、民居，在这片不大的土地上层层叠叠。
Came to the Jewish quarter, the block is very clean, desert yellow stone wall of the old house, slab road was slipped light, the ground can not see a little garbage, can not see the cleaners.But under the tidy pavement, maybe the ruins of an ancient building.Built destroyed the ruined and built churches, palaces, houses, in this small area on top of each other.

这里一堆堆被折叠的故事，不便在不同信仰的人群之间讨论展示，稍不留神就会引燃火苗。现实里能做的，就是多加岗哨，时时提醒人们“非礼勿言”。
Here a pile of folded story, inconvenience to discuss the show among people of different faiths, a little inattentive will ignite the flames.Reality can do, that is, more sentry, from time to time to remind people of "rude words."

人们往往以为他们是忐忑气氛的制造者，但他们自己却经常是谈笑风生，是不是自信可以防范更多忐忑事件的发生？其实，大多数忐忑事件与他们的尽职与否并无直接关联。
People tend to think that they are the makers of a dirty atmosphere, but they themselves are often laughing and joking, is not confident to prevent more stupid events?In fact, most 忐忑 events are not directly related to their due diligence.

满足一下香的甜的诱惑。生活还是很有味道。
Satisfy the sweet temptation of incense.Life is still very taste.

老哥俩的美好时光，就这样在不经意间淡定度过，完全无视身边摩肩接踵来探寻“苦路”或是品尝甜品的人们，似乎这里三千年从来就是这么云淡风轻。
The good old brothers, so calmly inadvertently spent, completely ignore the rub shoulders to explore "bitter" or people who enjoy the dessert, it seems here three thousand years has never been so elegant.

倒是外来观光者总是这样步履匆匆，似乎想在一个时辰里看清三千年的面容。
其实他们都知道，不同的王朝在这座城市上直接用掩埋的方式，在原来的城址上建新城。这里曾经是古时耶路撒冷的主街道，现在还可以看到罗马时期的建筑。虽然只残存高大的立柱，但墙上的大幅壁画描绘了当年的繁华景象。现在这里周围都已经是居民区。
It touches on foreign visitors always hurry, it seems like an hour to see the face of three thousand years.In fact, they all know that different dynasties in the city directly buried way, in the original city site built Metro.It used to be the main street of Jerusalem in ancient times, and Roman-era buildings can now be seen.Although only tall columns remain, the dramatic murals on the walls depict the flourishing scenery of the year.Now around here are already residential areas.

也许在她们眼里，好看的风景就在目力所及之处；而在我的眼里，好看的风景就是她们本身。
Perhaps in their eyes, good-looking landscapes come in sight, and in my eyes, good-looking landscapes are themselves.

偶尔会有仿制的物品，再现一下折叠进历史深处的元素，短暂地唤起“外来人员”的某些模糊意象。
Occasionally there will be imitations of objects that recreate the elements that have been folded into the depths of history, briefly arousing some vague images of "outsiders."

这些完全是“古为今用”的玩意，试图吸引过客的视线。
沉闷的老街巷里这一抹稍纵即逝的亮色，我愿意把它看作是映射了今天生活的温度。
These are completely "old for today" stuff, trying to attract the sight of passing customers.The boring old streets of the touch of fleeting bright colors, I would like to see it as a reflection of the temperature of today's life.

并不精致的雕刻，因为是用当地的橄榄树制作，也就让我打开快门“光顾”了一下。
认真一看，民间手工艺品里也是折叠着民族、宗教和历史的记忆。
Not exquisite carving, because it is made of local olive trees, also let me open the shutter "patronize" a bit.Take a closer look, folk handicrafts are also folded in the memory of ethnic, religious and historical.

孩子、老人、年轻人，各自有自己的节奏。这条“苦路”对他们来说，是一条通道、一处休闲之地，一处玩乐场所。
Children, the elderly, young people, each have their own rhythm.This "bitter road" for them, is a passage, a place of leisure, a place of play.

五、信仰的虔诚可否化解文明的纷争？
Fifth, religious piety can dissolve civilized disputes?

“苦路”的终点在老城内基督区圣墓教堂，据说是耶稣被钉十字架的地方，不远处是埋葬耶稣并复活的墓穴。教堂是耶路撒冷牧首的总部，而建筑本身则由基督教的三个教会、六个宗派共同管理。
The End of the Bitter Way In the Old City, the Church of the Holy Sepulcher, which is said to be the place where Jesus was crucified, is not far from the burial of Jesus and the resurrection of the tomb.The church is the headquarters of the shepherds of Jerusalem, and the building itself is run by the three churches of Christianity and the six denominations.

4世纪初罗马君士坦丁大帝的母亲下令在耶稣蒙难和埋葬处建造一座教堂，此后几经兴废，12世纪十字军进入耶路撒冷后，改建成罗马式长方形教堂。现在从教堂正门望去，前面的院子是属于希腊东正教的，而通往前院的楼梯属于亚美尼亚教派。关键是楼梯最后一级台阶是属于院子的延伸部分还是楼梯，两派争执从未停止，而二楼窗户外的梯子则是亚美尼亚教派近150年前放置的。
At the beginning of the 4th century, the mother of Constantine the Great of Rome ordered the building of a church at the crucifixion and burial of Jesus. Afterwards, it was rebuilt and rebuilt into a Romanesque rectangular church after it entered Jerusalem in the 12th century.Now looking out from the main entrance of the church, the front yard belongs to the Greek Orthodox Church, while the stairs to the front yard belong to the Armenian sect.The key is whether the last step of the staircase belongs to the extension of the yard or to the stairs. The dispute between the two parties never stopped. The ladder on the second floor of the window was placed by the Armenian sect almost 150 years ago.

有趣的是圣墓教堂大门的钥匙掌管在一个阿拉伯望族手中，每天早晨由阿拉伯少年负责打开大门，据说可以平衡各教派之间的争执。
凝视着这座融合了不同建筑风格、交织着各派争斗的教堂，我却在盘算：这里隐藏了几重宗教和历史的折叠？
Interestingly, the key to the gate of the Church of the Holy Sepulcher, in the hands of an Arab family of clansmen, is opened every morning by an Arab teenager who is said to be able to balance the seams.Gazing at the church, which blends different architectural styles and is intertwined with the factions, I figure out: How many religious and historical folds are hidden here?

这里集中的是苦路的第十至十三处。
圣母像前有个洞，人们把手伸进那个洞里，据说这个洞就是插耶稣受难十字架的。
The focus here is the tenth to thirteenth place of the bitter road.There was a hole in front of the Madonna, and people put their hands into the hole, which is said to contain the crucifixion of Jesus.

教堂内的一座小建筑就是苦路的最后一站圣墓。上方是教堂的大穹顶。顶上的天光直射到内部的“圣墓”。这在建筑艺术上不失为一种创新。
信徒们排着长队等候“瞻仰”。我们就不多逗留，到外面广场晒太阳去了。
A small building in the church is the last stop of the bitter road.Above the church's dome.The overhead sky shines straight into the inner "Holy Sepulcher."This is an innovation in architectural art.Believers are waiting in long lines to "look back."We will not stay until the sun outside the square to go.

亚美尼亚区圣雅各修道院。
锡安门附近是犹太人和亚美尼亚人区。亚美尼亚区不大，挂着国旗很容易辨别，居民像俄罗斯人。除住家外有犹太教学校，会堂，来来往往的犹太教徒也是一景。
Monastery of St. Jacob of Armenia.Near Zion Gate are Jewish and Armenian districts.Armenia is not large, hanging the national flag is very easy to identify, residents like the Russians.There are also Jewish schools, synagogues, and Jewish people coming and going except for the home.

这座高塔叫做鸡鸣堂，塔顶有一个金属的公鸡造型。
传说耶稣被捕后，他的门徒彼得三次否认与他与耶稣有关系。直到鸡鸣声响起，彼得才突然悔悟了自己所犯的罪。后来信徒们并不忌讳彼得作为耶稣的大弟子的过失，并建立了这座鸡鸣堂，作警示后人的反面教材。
我没有听到鸡鸣，只望见烟云掠过，远观即可，不想去捉摸。
This tower is called Chicken Hall, with a metal cock on the top of the tower.After Jesus was arrested, his disciple Peter denied having a relationship with Jesus on three occasions.Until the chirping sound started, Peter suddenly regretted the sin he had committed.Later, the believers did not taboo Peter's fault as a disciple of Jesus, and established the cocking hall to warn the posterity of the descendants.I did not hear the cock, just saw the clouds passing, far-sighted, do not want to elusive.

圣母安眠堂，其实不是圣母葬身之处，只是一个纪念地。据说1898年德国末代皇帝凯撒.威廉二世用12万德国马克买下了这块土地，1910年建造了这座教堂，之后由德国的神职人员管理，直至以色列建国。
感觉好像大家都可以来耶路撒冷伸胳膊伸腿。
Our Lady of Sleep Church, in fact, is not the place where the Virgin burial, just a memorial.It is said that in 1898 Caesar Wilhelm II, the last German emperor, purchased the land for 120,000 German marks, built the church in 1910 and was later run by the German clergy until the founding of Israel.It feels like everyone can come to Jerusalem to stretch their arms and legs.

马可楼，实际上就是一间房。这里对基督教来说是重要的圣地，是最后的晚餐的地方。传说耶稣在被捕前的最后一晚，就是在这里和门徒们用了晚饭，然后就去了客西马尼园。达芬奇的名画《最后的晚餐》描写得过于华丽了，当时的人们吃饭可能就是席地而坐。
Marco floor, in fact, is a room.This place is a sacred place for Christianity and the place for the final supper.It is said that on the last night before Jesus was arrested, Jesus spent dinner with the disciples here and went to Gethsemane.Leonardo da Vinci's famous painting "The Last Supper" is too gorgeous to describe, when the people may sit on the floor to sit.

马可楼前的大卫王像。虽是手抚乐器，但眉宇间的英武之气满满，这可能正是雕塑家的独具匠心。大卫王是一个多才多艺的人，除了擅长演奏竖琴，还写了很多优美的诗篇被记载于圣经。他被流传于世，同时受到犹太人和基督徒的敬仰崇拜，是因为他的文攻武略，他统一了以色列，成为了第一位以色列犹太国王。
Mark king David in front of the building.Although hand musical instruments, but the fullness of the war between the brow, it may be the unique originality of the sculptor.King David was a versatile man who, besides proficient in playing the harp, wrote many beautiful poems which were recorded in the Bible.He was circulated in the world, admired both by Jews and Christians because of his literary strategy, his unification with Israel and the first Jewish king of Israel.

西墙，是犹太教徒来祈祷朝拜的地方。西墙是指包含当年第二圣殿所留下的所有地下以及地上部分。现在所看到的50多米只是西墙的地上一部分。下部大约七层的大型墙砖是希律王时期的，中间比较整齐较大块的是8世纪倭马亚王朝时期的，再往上面比较小块的墙砖是16世纪奥斯曼时期补建的。
The Western Wall is where Jews pray for worship.The Western Wall means all the underground and above-ground parts left by the Second Temple of the year.The more than 50 meters we are seeing now are just a part of the Western Wall.The lower part of about seven large-scale wall brick is Herod's period, the middle of a relatively large block is the Umayyad period of the 8th century, and then to the top of the relatively small blocks of wall tiles was built in the 16th century Ottoman period.

西墙是犹太第二圣殿之后唯一存留到今天的建筑遗迹，对于犹太人来说，它所拥有的最高的神圣性是世界上任何其它事物都无法代替的。他们诵读经文或向上帝哭诉犹太人两千年来的悲苦境遇，所以西墙又称作“哭墙”。
The Western Wall is the only architectural monuments remaining to this day after the second Jewish Temple and the highest sanctity it possesses for the Jews can not be replaced by anything else in the world.They read the Scriptures or cry out to God for two thousand years on the mercy of Jews, so the Western Wall is also known as the "Wailing Wall."

1948年阿以战争后，西墙连同耶路撒冷老城一起被约旦占领，此后的19年间以色列人无法靠近西墙。1967年“六日战争”时以色列重新夺回西墙，并在三天内将西墙前面有七百多年历史的摩洛哥区夷为平地，建成了今天所见的广场。拆除建筑过程中造成了人员死亡和大量的巴勒斯坦难民。
After the Arab-Israeli War of 1948, the Western Wall was occupied by Jordan along with the Old City of Jerusalem, and Israelis were unable to approach the Western Wall for the next 19 years.Israel reconquered the Western Wall in the 1967 Six-Day War and razed the Moroccan area more than 700 years ago in front of the Western Wall within three days to create the plaza seen today.The demolition of the building caused the death of a large number of Palestinian refugees.

从着装看，一身黑衣黑帽的是守教的传统犹太人，穿着普通只戴个小帽的是世俗犹太人。
一批又一批的犹太人肃然虔敬地来到西墙前，深情地抚摸着墙上的巨石，如泣如诉地低声向神祷告，有的还把自己的心愿折叠在一张小纸条上塞入墙缝中，就像是给天上的父亲写家信一样，由衷地冀望天父能够悦纳他们的祈祷。
From the dress, a black hat is a traditional Jews who keep their clothes, and ordinary Jewish people wear only a small cap.After another group of Jews piously came in front of the Western Wall, affectionately stroked the boulders wall, weeping like a vow to pray to God, and some also put their wishes folded in a small notePocketing the wall, like writing a letter to a heavenly father, sincerely hopes that the Father will accept their prayers.

女人区的面积要小很多。
也是重男轻女？
Women's area is much smaller.Is also patriarchal?

男兵是守卫者还是观光客？
或许是一种“行为艺术”？
表象的违和感里，隐藏着历史纠葛与现实期望之间的矛盾。
Male soldiers are guards or tourists?
Perhaps a "performance art"?
In the sense of non-conformity of appearance, the contradiction between the historical entanglement and the actual expectation is hidden.

女兵是执勤还是导游？或许是有意渲染“安宁祥和”的气氛？
耶路撒冷这部“大书”，直觉的“封面”下折叠了太多的内容，即使能理出头绪，也难解纠缠的疙瘩。
Female soldiers are on duty or tour guides?Perhaps it is intended to render the atmosphere of "peaceful and peaceful"?Too much content is folded under this "big book" in Jerusalem, the intuitive "cover page", and even if the clue can be discerned, the entangled knot can not be solved.

只有孩子们的笑容天真烂漫。我倒是希望他们能一直这样无忧无虑。
Only kids smile innocent.I'd just like them to be so carefree.