The main claim to fame of Nis was that Constantine The Great was born here. It's not on the tourist trail. Unfortunately Serbia is not on the tourist trail as it should be. With the stigma of the Balkan War, the uneducated think it is unsafe.
But Serbia is one of my favourite countries to travel in and on my third visit I went South to the countries third largest city; - Nis.
Constantine The Great would spend his summer holidays in his birthplace, Nis
The town reeks of history. It may be macabre, but there is plenty to learn and engage your imagination of the past. The best way to realise your place in the world is to speak to locals and find a different view as what Western media will tell you about the Balkan battles. There has been plenty of injustices which continue today nearby in Kosovo.
Attila the Huns army attacked the city around 441-448. Then almost a thousand years later the Ottomans claimed the area until 1878.
In 1809, a Serbian uprising started as they wanted their land back. Unfortunately outnumbered and outgunned by the Ottoman Turks, a Serbian insurgent leader sacrificed himself by blowing up the gunpowder supply killing advancing Turks and himself and his men.
To make an example and avoid more arguments, the Serbian dead were collected and 952 skulls cemented into a tower at the gates of the city as a warning. Today, only 58 of those skulls remain due to weather or family reclamation.
For a small fee the Skull Tower can be visited where you can learn more about the uprising and brutal suppression of the locals. A small chapel has been built around the remains protecting what is left of the tower.
Monument of Liberators of Nis. Struggles graphically displayed against Turks, Bulgarians and Germans
Along came the First World War when German and Bulgarian armies occupied Nis. Then in 1941 the Germans set up the Red Cross Concentration Camp in Nis where 12,000 prisoners were killed. Many were shot on Bubanj Hill above the city. On Bubanj Hill there is a three-fisted monument. Each symbolizing child, women and men Nazi victims. If you take bus line 4 and walk up a path for 20 minutes you can visit this bulbous 'Yugi' monument.
Bubanj Hill
The Red Cross Concentration Camp is open to visitors, for a small fee, although I wouldn't recommend it as there are better ways to spend your day in Nis if your time is limited. One visit to any European Concentration camp is enough to comprehend.
The fortress on the banks of the Nisava River has been pulled down and rebuilt numerous times yet is the best preserved Turkish fortifications in the Balkans. Roman tombstones were used to rebuild it and there is a cemetery inside along with old buildings and open space to walk and admire the views over the city.
General Tito’s Partizans reclaimed Serbia in 1945 and introduced the Peoples Republic of Yugoslavia. Everyone was happy with a purpose in life. Jobs, homes and their identity back.
The continuing story.... from the death of Tito in 1980, the Yugoslav break-up, NATO and USA intervention in the area is for the following travellers to find out for themselves. Serbians are approachable and friendly people willing to share their lives and experiences if they speak your language.
It is common in Serbia that hostels are someones own home or apartment. This is how to start conversing with the locals. AirBnB and staying with host families also will give you the opportunity to appreciate your visit to Nis as they will tell you the best places to eat and visit along with learning more about this fascinating place over a glass of Rakia or two.
This is why I love to travel in Serbia. To experience hospitality of the people who are proud of their heritage that they have battled to maintain for so long.
Getting there:- Low cost European airlines Ryan Air and Wizz fly to Nis. Long distance train and coaches are available from Belgrade & Skopje.
All photos taken by myself.
From my blog. Visit to Nis in 2013
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