Victoria Falls Southern Africa's Heart
Great Zambezi pumps life giving water into veins of Africa, do we appreciate the natural wonders of the world?
Modern Zambezi excursions offer adrenaline junkies white-water rafting, bungee jumping, abseiling, perhaps you prefer a flip in a helicopter, for me a walk in nature does fine.
1 of the 7 natural wonders in our world, sharing memories of my first visit in 1964, returning forty-two years later in 2006,(taking my husband to see this spectacular part of Africa for our thirtieth wedding anniversary). Time has changed a lot, don't allow places in nature become commercialized!
December 1964 my Mom an avid traveler arranged a three week train expedition (I can only refer to it as such, since who in their right mind takes four children 7, 9, 11 and 14 on self-catering holiday by train). Intense research I have since learned very few direct routes were available, what follows is the zigzag route (to the best of my memory and research).
Journey by train in December 1964; Johannesburg, Krugersdorp, Mahikeng (Mafikeng) (South Africa), crossing to Francistown (Botswana), up to Plumbtree (Southern Rhodesia/Zimbabwe), via Bulawayo, linking up to Victoria Falls (3 day stop over).
Back to Bulawayo, Salisbury (Harare), Umtali (Mutare), crossing over to Mozambique; Beira (2 day stop over).
Reverse down the line back into Southern Rhodesia, Salisbury (Harare), going via Gwelo (Gweru), Shabani, into Mozambique down to Lourenço Marques (Maputo) (3 day stop over with dignitary visit, not sure if it was the last visit of Portuguese President Américo Tomás).
Homeward bound via Komati Poort, Pretoria, Johannesburg (South Africa).
Reflecting back I recall Mom saying it was now or never trip, trouble was brewing to the north (as it happens reading now, the territories of Mozambique had already started), we never witnessed anything or perhaps were to young to realize anything untoward.
A memory I do recollect my brothers traveled in the coupe (2 sleeper) with my parents and two girls in next door compartment (4 sleeper), when traveling into Salisbury (Maputo) we were instructed to put the glass windows down and roll up the wooden shutters entering/exiting the station. Boys being boys looked out to see an armed force mounted on front and back of train, the whole trip went without a glitch, no turmoil evident, we were tourists...
Nothing will ever erase the smell of old train coaches, steam engine puffing away pulling the load up and down hills, wildlife was plentiful sitting at the window with wind blowing through your hair, being continuously told to watch your eyes for soot dropout. For some reason we never took many photo's of trains we traveled in every year up and down to the coast, nor on this very special trip, having photo's an added expense we could ill afford.
Talking of trains; In the collage diesel must have been very new, a sign of times changing from steam. A diesel locomotive in Mozambique used to haul us back to South Africa. Another vivid memory, on the Mozambique railway line ran air-conditioned units along one route, we ended up with some guy smoking cigars in the same carriage, it made us children feel quite ill, my parents were not impressed being non-smokers, give me windows that open!
Victoria Falls we roamed the bush paths to and from the bridge, freely crossing from one side to the other (no passports required on first visit with Southern and Northern Rhodesia), taking the steps down to the boiling pot looking up at the falls.
Our 2006 trip we found you could not drive across, expected to pay USD $1000 Insurance on top of vehicle rental, so we parked and walked with our passport in hand.
The motor vehicle hire company in South Africa never mentioned a word about paying additional charges to travel across borders to Botswana or into Zimbabwe which dashed a lot of our dreams exploring, however whether we would have got there was another problem with fuel shortages.
Petrol stations were closed in Zimbabwe with no fuel available!
Being South African flying up in 2006 it was very evident at customs that South African's were welcome, going through without stopping, while others arriving from Europe had long queues to wade through. Perhaps a well organized tour group is the easier way to travel in Africa.
Plan ahead, a quick phone call saved us a lot of frustration in obtaining advice directly from staff at the Lokuthula Lodges, take USD and ZAR was strongly advised, use Traveler Checks for converting into USD or Zim Dollars (during 2006).
USD was only currency accepted at hotels, booking helicopter rides, elephant outings, sunset cruise, plus other excursions.
ZAR was acceptable entering the falls on Zimbabwe side (R200 or $200 entry fee, work that one out at 14:1, hell yes ZAR was the fiat to ride on), buying beer and provisions in town you needed Zim Dollars.
Elephant ride what a humbling experience, only learned years later the elephants do suffer from human's riding them. Rehabilitation of orphaned elephants, we were mesmerized with the exceptional love and care given, one is only allowed to walk with these great beautiful animals today. Well worthwhile spending time supporting good efforts. Coco is still there helping new young arrivals to adapt, we humans learned a lesson not to use animals, help them survive never abuse their trust.
The old baobab tree is now cordoned off with fence this stood in the open.
There was one Livingstone statue 1964 on Zimbabwe side of the river, now both sides have a statue honoring the first European to see the falls.
First visit to Zimbabwe water level was exceptionally high, my Dad almost slipped and tumbled in the rain forest, on the second trip not flowing as strongly in month of May.
Zimbabwe have made significant upgrades to the rain forest paths and safety cables demarcated the area more clearly, looking after nature
Difficult to say whether staying in Zimbabwe or Zambia are the better, either way visa permit may be required to enjoy both sides, make inquiry about availability of transport for ease of movement.
Having a hired car allowed us to travel up the Zimbabwe side of the river through part of Victoria Falls National Park where we ended up in the middle of a herd of elephant moving down to the waters edge. We never saw another vehicle or person and enjoyed quality time along the river bank hearing a lizard plop into the water.
Sadly due to lack of petrol being available we did not go down to Wankie Reserve (Hwange National Park) which we traveled through/alongside by train in our youth.
At the end of each day we would travel down to the river to watch elephant frolicking in the water or on the waters edge, once we witnessed some swim across to the island.
Zimbabwe at the time had security everywhere, we never felt threatened on either side and had a wonderful stay.
Going into the future I hope this region remains wild, never over-run by tourists and development which is evident in what I witnessed from a small town, it has grown with Lodges and activities from every access point, fencing going up in areas we could walk enjoying nature are no more.
Places to stay in Zimbabwe
Makasa Sun Casino located within the Great Enclosure at The Kingdom at Victoria Falls. Victoria Falls Hotel a taste of the old world with a view of the falls.
Self catering Lokuthula Lodge in Victoria Falls. These RCI time share lodges can be hired at very reasonable rates, and are ideally located.
Lokuthula Lodges is a self-catering resort with 37 rustic thatched lodges located next to the prestigious Victoria Falls Safari Lodge.
The resort is situated in an un-fenced wildlife area and guests must be accompanied by guides when embarking on walks outside the perimeters of the resort. Guards patrolled the area day and night, when not driving for meals escorted you to the main hotel.
Shuttle service was offered to get into town daily, superb accommodation. Meals in the Victoria Falls Safari Lodge offered views over wateringhole with elephants silently gliding in below a panoramic view from above.
Address: Stand 471 Squire Cummings Ave, Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe
Phone: +263 213 284 3201
Enjoying an early evening meal one could watch the elephants ambling into the waterhole while enjoying your dinner.
Both upstairs and downstairs bedrooms came with mosquito netting, front door and upper bedroom window are canvas giving ambiance in being in the bush. The kitchen door was the only room which we were told to keep windows and door locked at all times to avoid being raided by monkeys.
People never listen, sitting outdoors enjoying lunch our neighbours home was invaded by the monkeys, warthog were waiting on the sidelines, the uproar that ensued was hilarious with warthog stealing from the stash monkeys had got away with. Local security armed guards roam between the houses day and night put paid to the rascals in no time at all. People returned to an empty pantry ha ha ha...
Peek into the lounge with canvas wall, kitchen in the background.
Accommodation used 1964
Fortunately we were allowed into the gates of the VicFalls Rest Camp after explaining I had stayed there for three nights in 1964, we were not allowed to explore which is understandable. Gardens appeared 'spic and span', high security evident all these years later.
To think we ran out of these very same cottages almost straight into rough bushveld, we walked the bridge, walked to the big tree on sand roads, now all under tar, great memories a life time away.
Budget is always something to take into consideration, there are superb references for more accommodation right in town.
Train Travel
Expensive, original way to enjoy going up to witness the region is still available by Train.
Comparison between 1964 and 2006 visits I felt compelled to write about, are we humans really wishing to have entertainment at every destination. Consider the knock on effect, lodges along with entertainment going up everywhere a place is no longer "wild"!
Perhaps due to humans one of the seven wonders of the world loses it's rightful place becoming another economic hub, churning greed, nowhere near what "The Sound of Thunder" deserves.
All photography is my own, taken with a Olympus Digital Camera C160.D395, collage photography by my parents who knows using what camera at the time.
I have no Affiliation to any links shared to assist travelers.
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Looks like an amazing place to go visit.
One definitely gets goose bumps taking in the power of nature here @wales
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What a fantastic post things sure have changed a lot over the years, Zimbabwe is a place I always wanted to visit but never made it t, but through your post I fele like I now have :)
Thanks for joining Wednesday Walk :)
My parents went there for their honeymoon, later wished to move to the region, I think that was partially the reason of our trip up in 1964.
Thanks for enjoying, more of a walk down memory lane....
Sometimes walks down memory lane are the best walks ;)
That seemed a great adventure! I love waterfalls, and those are also on my places-to-visit list!
There are some organized over land tours from Cape Town, through Namibia, into Botswana across to the Victoria Falls, depending on one's pocket and age it may be a good way to travel @pardinus
I normally tend to travel without any organized tours, but I guess in some places it can't be done no other way. Still so many places to see! 😉 😂
So much to see, so much to do, never enough time in a lifetime to do everything one would love to accomplish.
True... but we can try! ;)
Such a beautiful travel and a variety of great photography, thanks for sharing with us!
So glad you enjoyed the content @almi thanks for visiting.
Great post here Lady Joan and glad that you also picked one of the 7 wonders.
I went there in the 80s, but via Chobe.
A great place in those years.
Blessings!
That is where disappointment came in, we could not get over to Chobe, so close yet so far Stephen.
Train journey in 1964 bush was teaming with wild life.
You been to Chobe Lady Joan?
At Gazankula there's an old steel ferry that loads the car and travels across the river to dock at the Zambian side.
A wonderful adventure, but a very far drive.
Blessings!
Never been into Chobe, sadly was planned not achieved yet. Exceptionally long way to drive, perhaps consider a tour one day if we are lucky to go that far north again Stephen.
Oh you have to see Gazankula at Chobe Lady Joan. They have some beautiful lodges there with wide open breakfast spreads. The joining point of four countries and once you cross the river into Zambia, the first little town is called Livingstone. A really unforgettable place with Elephants, Hippos and Crocs all over the place.
The nights are also filled with animal sounds.
Blessings!
Beautiful posts
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Are you kidding me? 3 week train ride with 4 kids?!?!?!?! You mother is either nuts or a heroine!
Anyway, it is some pretty impressive sights... the three week original journey must have been quite a formative experience, definitely something to remember for life!
I am still dumbfounded how parents coped on the train, the journey to get there was a disjointed with many changes (relied on input from brothers and sister) took me months to research old train routes.
Original trip up was amazing, running through the bush barefoot never knowing what you would see around the next corner. Only scary moments, my Dad almost plummeting over the edge in the rain forest, and my oldest brother about to hurl a rock at a massive bee hive going down the steps to the boiling pot, other than that all was good at the end of the day.
Impressive your expedition to the waterfall, interesting to see how things have evolved after so many years. South Africa is fascinating and you made a wonderful blog.
It is worrying to see development for human entertainment starting to alter a perfectly natural place @bluemoon, thanks for visiting.
Yes, it is considered that this is progress, nature is a collateral victim.
Sad but true!
Yes!
Oh my, that's a fantastic view!! And the baby elephant is so adorable.
Orphaned babies are still going into the rehabilitation home with older elephants and human minders taking good care of them @joelai they are amazing animals, so caring of each other.
I'm so glad to hear that they are being taken care of. They are amazing creatures!
Sadly today elephants are not coping with lack of food and water in Wankie (Hwange) Reserve, 55 died in the last week.
Oh no... That's very sad!
What an amazing post. Great reflection. Eco tourism has become a fashionable word, but I wonder how long can nature and tourists stay as a happy marriage.
Everything looks great, though. I also wonder how much of the money produced by tourism goes back to the people of those communities (in improvements of their way of life).
I loved the fact that you had all those great pictures from the 1964 trip
How much money is driven back into local communities I could not say, many do find employment in an otherwise economically drained country.
Being a small area on the border of Zambia and Botswana I dare to say they are able to obtain certain necessary amenities possibly not available locally.
One thing for certain, glaringly obvious is Zimbabwe is no longer the bread basket of Africa. Prime beef in 1964 was of superb quality along with many fresh vegetables and fruit. Noticeable difference in 2006 was lack of beef, in preference ordering warthog stew when dining out, knowing the meat was fresh.
Wow. Interesting. Thanks, @joanstewart. Here in Venezuela most touristic facilities are in ruin. The elite, as always keeps some jewels still working for them, but most resorts and other facilities, which used to provide amenities for the average folk, are out of business.
Have and have not, those that have don't bother with those who have nothing, sad reality. Those who have are normally the ones involved with demise of country through corruption, still baffling to think countries with so many resources are struggling to see the light of day @hlezama
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Super cool ! I wanna go to Africa now :)
Hope you get here, be sure to arrange properly @xmauron3
Thank you for photos and story!)
Nothing beats amazing memories @amalinavia thank you for visiting.
Awesome.
If you want to speculate on the tourism potential, just imagine Niagara Falls. I used to go there a lot as it was only a 90min drive. Fun place but no nature to be found.
This is what worries me, why do people go to a place of natural beauty and need man-made entertainment to enjoy a region?
Totally confused, nature has so much to offer @abitcoinskeptic
I agree completely. Niagara falls in in a sorry state compared to Victoria falls. It's so bad a lot of companies used photoshopped pictures or views from places that it is impossible to actually see it, or even worse, the opposite country.
Lessons eventually get learned, just wonder how long it will take mankind to actually listen? Sorry to hear your falls have become over commercialized and nothing remotely like one would like to see. Perhaps plan a trip over here before this starts to happen over here as well.
Wow, this is an epic post, @joanstewart. It was really fun to go on your travels. I'm glad that elephant riding has stopped. I didn't know it was bad for them, but knowing that I am very glad that the animals are treated with care and respect.
I really enjoyed all of your anecdotes about the past, and all the pictures. The review of different accommodations was really interesting! And I loved the monkey story about how they raided the food!
Elephants have earned my respect, most humbling to be in their company.
Tthe other humbling feature is to realize how small and insignificant we are in nature, those water falls blow leave you speechless.
That's a good comparison, but seeing how places were looking like tens years ago always makes me feel a little bit melancholic :)
It was good to go back again, definitely second trip stirred up many memories @gabrielatravels
This is quite an adventure. You have seen a lot of amazing places and this is no exception. That is what life is about, see the world as much as we can if possible.
Travel is an educational experience in many ways, keep adventures going far and wide @watersnake101
wow!!! amazing and I am so excited to know what picture is your favorite.......
Could not pick @kkboy all a wonderful experience.
Rainbow with waterfall is awesome . amazing photographs.
Beautiful place for visit. thanks for share with us..
Certain places make one silent in the presence of nature, this is one of them, not only are the falls so loud but they make one realize how small we are @tussar11 thanks for visiting.
I thoroughly enjoyed reading your post about your trip to the falls. It does sound like you have to really know what you are doing when traveling there. It is indeed a wonder of the world.
Exceptionally long distances to cover, needs some planning with countries not being stable as in yesteryear.
Friends with 4 x 4 vehicles traveled up in a group through Namibia, into Botswana down via Falls through Zimbabwe back to Durban. Valuable tips given was to travel with some goods to barter for food. In goods they referred to books for schooling, shoes, clothing, they had a clear run all the way through.
Wow, that sounds somewhat scary. It is sad to think that there are still so many areas of the world with so many needs left unmet.
It is sad, we took additional things up just to hand out to some of the lovely folk we met up there. Doing the same at home with people stopping to ask for a pair of shoes, clothing or some food.
With the corruption that has happened in both countries we have moved backwards, unlike Botswana and Namibia who are slowly showing more stability.
Awesome pictures!
Thanks so much for visiting @uzairk
Wow, an amazing story. Thanks for sharing. I'm looking forward to reading more about Africa.
Outside of cities, Africa is an amazing place to visit @ianballantine
What a fasinating post to see the comparison of Victoria Falls from 1982 compared to 2006.
It is saddening to see the commercialism of such an amazing natural wonder and how fortunate you were to have been there in 1962! Beautiful! Beautiful Area!
I have a question about the view from the plane is that a cultivated area of some sort or is that what the natural terrain looks like?
I really appreciate you taking us along on these tours! That is the closest I'll get to visiting Victoria Falls!
The view from the plane is raw bushveld, natural terrain most of the way, you do see some farmlands spotted along the way where there is water and roads, none is this particular photo @porters, thanks for visiting and comment.
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Wow @joanstewart, what an awesome tribute to Vic Falls! Still on my bucket list though, a friend's son spoilt her with a trip there plus surprised her with a day trip there on a luxury train, she couldn't stop talking about the whole experience! Well deserved earnings on your post Joan!
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Most definitely a place to visit, what an awesome gift to go up on the luxury train I am sure you still see a lot more going that route.
Really hope you do get to see this amazing place @lizelle thanks for visiting.
It's nice to see that you're able to go back here after so much years! I was reading at your route during the 1964 and already got tired of how long has it been. Thank you as well for sharing your recommendations on accommodation, travel time and budget!
Checking original route took me a couple of weeks research, had to download quite a number of maps which are not so easy to find as I thought, I did not put them up since the post was already quite long.
Travel one experiences something different each time, I was amazed to see the excellent condition of the original place we stayed at, thanks for visiting @johnarvee12
That is right! Even if you go back to the same place you've been to, every travel is really a different experience.
Wow this was a full travel expedition in pictures, I am sure you had a hello of a time, lol. Their zims are pink and purple?
The original money came in a variety of colours, exchange gave us this particular denomination it was attractive money to say the least even though it had such a low value @turbobro
Such great memories!
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Yes it was entertaining collating it @cindyhartz.
What a fabulous travel tour and journey! SO much to see there!
I would visit again, every experience is wonderful @goldendawne so glad I went back when we did.
Thank you for curation and visit @qurator.
this is a great place to visit.
Worth visiting with many great options and ways in getting there @kensydney223
I would need to sneak by the fence somehow so I could hug the baobab tree👍👍☺👍👍🌳💕🙏
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That tree is so old they estimate between 1000 and 1500 years, imagine what it has seen in it's lifetime @thereikiforest
As for age that is still most probably young in comparison to Baobab's still in existence.
That looks like an absolutely fantastic place to visit! I'd love to be able to see Elephants frolicking in the wild.
I agree with you that human expansion into natural habitats is sad. As a people we need to find a better way to grow. I remember watching farm after farm get covered by housing and thinking it was really sad to see. There are entire areas I remember that were once natural now covered in business complexes. Bah.
We have this happening right across the road from where we live, building new business parks when there are business parks standing empty during hard times.
Where small buck, porcupines and wildlife lived it is now all gone, disgusted with how people are managing little wilderness left today.
that's so pretty, the rainbow dash in the mountain looks so nice
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Looking down into the gorge.
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Certainly a lovely walk down memory lane, Joan. Fabulous photos. Love how the rainbow appears in the first photos.
Every time you turn you see rainbows with all the water pumping over @redheadpei a photographers dream.
Lovely story and photos! Wow! It's like I was there too :) thanks for sharing! ^_^
Thanks for visiting and comment of enjoyment @iamraincrystal
On my bucket list, Joan. I was talking to someone the other day, who's in the tourism business: the falls are dry.
Sad. But let's hope there's rain.
Low season is November, they are suffering with lack of water up there. Was reading that 55 elephants died in Hwange (Wankie) Reserve in this last week with lack of water and food.
Water in Africa is becoming a massive problem, you hit gold when drilling for water and finding some on your property Fiona, securing your future in the area you live.
And the sale of those elephants from Hwange...
Exploitation of wildlife is disgusting, our plane flight up we had an international visitor bragging his annual "canned hunting visit"! I was glad to see him held up at customs, hope they banned him from entering.
Oh good!
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Victoria Falls is beautiful! I'm with you on commercializing nature. It seems so crass, but it's something we Americans have elevated to an art form. I hope they keep South Africa, and Zimbabwe free of this as much as possible. Keep it beautiful, and free.
Times have changed (not for the better I am afraid), as a child I do not know if my parents needed permits for travel, definitely no passports. Only people checking on the train was the ticket conductor.
So called global village has become a money making scam over all continents, big brother watching you at every turn.
That is true. All in the name of fighting terrorism.
Hello
What a special trip, what memories for you.
Thank you for sharing them
the landscape is beautiful and I love it
Happy day
Trips of a lifetime, very fortunate to have been able to visit and enjoy.
Wow, this is a wonderful post @joanstewart! I'll be reading it again, so much to absorb...truly facinating. I have found it interesting to compare experiences from childhood vacation spots vs today. I can't fathom the experience you have had over the years with this kind of up close and personal nature encounters. The elephants, the monkeys just the camping itself, fantastic! Thank you for sharing this :)
Encounters with wildlife are always exciting, massive changes have taken place and not always for the better. Thanks for visiting and commenting @birdsinparadise
Another amazing post with fabulous photos and a plethora of information @joanstewart, loved it. 💕
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Glad you enjoyed the info @wonderwop
Wow ! This is the great outdoors and you look like you're having a great time.
I like the lodges.. It's cosy and really showing the true beauty of the life the locals live.
This is a tourist destination, sadly the locals live in poverty in a village on the road between the falls and the airport @ireenchew, fortunately there is some work for them in this village.
Zimbabwe , travelling by train and lodges, pitting that on my list I loved the blog and all it’s info must have been a lot of work
Train travel today is sheer luxury at a price, worth putting on a bucket list looking at tours that take you up through three countries at a reasonable cost @brittandjosie, piecing the original trip together was a lot of fun.
Those shots look amazing! Thank you so much for sharing this with us!
Glad to have you join me @sgbonus