Writing this in #travelfeed, you might expect me to wax lyrical about Vientiane’s many wonderful attractions; temples, markets, eateries, and those beautiful Mekong sunsets. But, that’s not going to happen, at least not in this particular post. For now, I’ll leave those subjects to the well-crafted clichés of more eloquent writers than I, and instead, concentrate on what I see as the glorious quirks and contradictions of Lao PDR and its capital city, Vientiane.
I’ve been here many times, and despite Vientiane being the administrative hub for a nation of seven million people, its centre still has the quirky feel of a village. In recent years the city has sprawled outwards into the surrounding countryside, but most of the tourist attractions are to be found within walking or cycling distance of the city’s heart. In fact, Vientiane feels so relaxed that lest we forget what it actually is, its official name should act as a constant reminder to all of us: Vientiane Capital.
Vientiane is quite possibly the most laid-back capital city in Asia, if not the World. Beyond those who make their living as professional drivers, nobody here ever seems to be in much of a hurry about anything. Shops will open at around 9am, and often close for an hour or two at lunchtime, before finally pulling down their shutters with the setting sun. Most restaurants and bars will remain open later, perhaps until 10 or 11pm, but beyond then, Vientiane and its visitors tend to sleep.
As one of the world’s few remaining truly communist states, the 'D' in Lao PDR appears to be something of a contradiction: Lao People’s Democratic Republic.
When I think of Communism I usually associate it with Authoritarianism, so can a Communist State also be Democratic? Well yes, and perhaps, also no. At election time, the good people of Lao flock to the polls and cast their votes in a one-person-one-vote electoral system. However, in order for any candidate to appear on the ballot paper, he or she must first be approved and endorsed by the ruling party: The Lao People’s Revolutionary Party.
If that seems like a contradiction to the term Democracy, then seeing so many Bentley, Audi, Mercedes, Ferrari and Lamborghini supercars cruising the streets of Vientiane, in a country where the nominal per capita income is just $2,250.00 per annum, I’m not sure what that says about this particular version of Communism?
You’ll often hear people refer to Lao PDR as Laos or as Lao, but which spelling and pronunciation is correct? Well, the answer to that question is both quirky and contradictory.
Until being granted independence in 1953, for sixty years Laos had been a French Protectorate. And, although the French officially left here some sixty-five years ago, their influence remains strong. The name Laos is a hangover from the French, and is still something of an alien name to many Laotians. In 1899, the French brought together the three Lao Kingdoms of Luang Prabang, Vientiane and Champasak, and assigned that newly created nation the name of Laos. The French added the S to Lao in order to signify the plural for the three newly united Kingdoms.
However, in the various Laotian languages there appears to be no other words that end with a hard sounding 'S'. Hence, even in official circles you’ll commonly see and hear both ”Laos” and ”Lao” being used. But here in Lao PDR, you’ll seldom hear locals pronouncing that alien sounding 'S'.
Another quirk of Vientiane appears to be the alarming number of International NGO’s operating here. Especially it would seem, representatives from the various offices of the United Nations. With their fleets of gleaming Toyota Land Cruisers, linen suites, and leather satchels, their officials are incredibly easy to identify.
Paint me cynical, but exactly what do they do here? I’m honestly not sure, but listening to their conversations in restaurants and bars, it seems that their raison d'être is to simply talk at length and uncritically about, well, mostly about themselves it would seem.
As a developing nation Lao PDR certainly has its share of problems, but with so many NGO’s working here to help solve them, then surly they must be within a few lingering lunches of permanently fixing everything.
So, what I’m really trying to say is that Lao PDR and Vientiane Capital are littered with quirks and contradictions, but in a way that makes visiting here so much more rewarding. And, I’ll finish here with a picture of one of Vientiane’s most famous landmarks, The Patuxai Gate.
Completed in 1968, Patuxai Gate stands as a memorial to those who gave their lives in the struggle for independence from France. It stands proud in the centre of its own island halfway along Vientiane’s widest boulevard, Lang Xan Avenue, and is impossible to miss.
I would never wish to make light of a memorial to the fallen, but on the inner wall of Patuxai Gate hangs an information plaque that perfectly illustrates the wonderful quirks of Vientiane. The wording on that official blue plaque is either a rare example of brutal honesty, or more likely, a hasty cut-and-pasted job from a poorly edited Trip Adviser Review:
"At the northeastern end of the LaneXan Ave. arises a huge structure resembling the Arc de Triomphe. It is the Patuxay or Victory Gate of Vientiane".
"Built in 1962 (BE 2505) but never completed due to the country’s turbulent history. From a closer distance, it appears even less impressive, like a monster of concrete".
"Nowadays this place is used as leisure ground for the people of Vientiane and the seventh floor on top of the building serves as excellent view point over the city".
Thanks for reading along, and I hope that my comments come across as observations, because they are certainly not intended to be criticisms. In my following posts I will concentrate more on the tourist aspects of Lao PDR, a country that I would advise everybody to place highly on their travel-bucket-list.
Riding and smiling as always ….. Geoff
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Brilliant "monster of concrete" gotta be honest Geoff I/we have been to Vientiane many times, mostly for 'visa runs' as we lived in Chiang Mai at the time, but never saw this. Saw the "monster of concrete" many times but not the plaque...classic! We would always extend our stay there because it was such a comfy place to be and we always felt happy there, as it goes we always pronounced it as Lao, but that was by pure luck and from mimicking the locals, so thanks for the history brother. Be happy & (continue) smiling my friend :)
Exactly the same reason for my first visits, but I enjoyed the place and now use it as an escape from Bangkok. When I visit any sites or Temples, I tend to take a photograph of the information boards, just so that a year later when I'l looking back through the pictures, I know what the place was. It was only looking at the photograph when I realised what it said... brilliant.
Great post. I first visited in 2005, and I note how much it had changed for the worse since then. Progress I guess. In 2004 you barely saw a car, never mind a Bentley but this will be in part to the relaxation of the business owning rules somewhat that have begun to create personal wealth...as well as the rampant corruption. As to things closing early, Law says all clubs and bars must be closed by 12. Anyway, if you fancy reading my take on Vientiene back in 2005 and comparing the changes to today...
https://steemit.com/travel/@nathen007/laos-my-first-trip-t0-asia-2005
Great piece mate, best wishes
I really enjoyed your post from your visit here in 2005. What a contrast for anybody visiting Vientiane for the first time today. My first time here was 2009, but the changes have been dramatic. Then, they were beginning work along the banks of the Mekong, but with dozens of pop-up food stalls with chairs and tables, you could dine there at sunset. Today, well, joggers and aerobics classes get the best views across the Mekong to Nong Khai and a cute tented night market takes the lower ground.
I suspect that within a few years, the last remaining French Colonial buildings will have vanished and been replaced by anonymously square concrete and glass structures. Unless it’s a Temple, it feels like nothing in Vientiane will be preserved, but perhaps given their history, that’s somewhat understandable. I honestly don’t know, but from an outsider’s point of view, the soul of Vientiane is vanishing rapidly.
yesss thats one thing that really saddened me was the road and parks along the banks where the food stall used to be...I now go to Savannakhet to renew my marriage visa once a year. They still have many french colonial style buildings there. I know a lot of foreigners hate going there for their visa but I love the quietness and simplicity.
by the way, I got robbed sorry 'fined' by immigrationor police for walking in the new park at 10pm as there are allegedly signs saying it closes at 8, be careful..cost me the $50usd i had in my wallet.
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Nice photos! My cousin's husband is from Lao - he didn't bring any pictures with so him and this was very cool to see! Great post :)
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Thanks @amariespeaks. Vientiane and Lao are beautiful, but the photos I took here were more to show the quirks. You should visit one day, I think you'll enjoy it.
lol yeah - but regardless of the poorly translated signs - it's so cool to see !