Injured Surfergirl Waiting For Rainbows || Why Facing Jeopardy Is Part Of My Personal Freedom

in #adventure7 years ago (edited)
Decision is a risk rooted in the courage of being free - Paul Tillich.

As a surfer I'm constantly putting myself in jeopardy stepping over the edge of life. That's my personal way of living complete freedom.

The love for adrenaline is part of my DNA.

Seeking adventurous situations pushs me forward, it fuels me. That's why I'm disposed to pay the corresponding price for it at any time.

During my last video shooting for Steemit I had a little accident which turned out to be more serious than initially believed. A heavy contusion and some deeper abrasions require me to assume the maximum penalty: no surfing!

Now I have to deal with that, and it's all good the way it is.

Adventure means allowing the unexpected to happen - both in a positive and negative direction!

@surfermarly waiting for rainbows

Screw it, let's do it!

In adventurous situations we don't have much time to think and actually calculate the immediate risk.

We follow our instinct that has been shaped over years by experience.

Sometimes we win, and sometimes we learn. In the present example I had bad luck and the situation seemed to be much safer than it actually was.

I even recorded the accident, it's part of my Dtube video "The Snatcher".

At first glance I thought it was just a little scratch.

But then I started walking and - besides all the blood coming out of the wound - I noticed an increasing pain in my knee.

First I laughed about it and was even grateful for the 'authentic effect' in the video, but then I knew: this is going to screw up my surf weekend. Now two more days have passed and I'm still far away from paddling out again. Flexing the knee hurts a lot, also the salty water entering the wound would be excruciating.

Still I have no regrets.

What if I fall? Oh darling, and what if you fly?

Not securing any situation I enter is part of my personal freedom.

There is no absolute security in life, and I really enjoy pushing my own limits, finding out how far I can go. I'm completely aware of the risk and able to deal with the consequences at any time.

I have no regrets, because it's all I want.

Adventure without risk is Disneyland. - Douglas Coupland

Who wants to meet Mickey Mouse if you can join Indiana Jones?! :-)

Best, Marly -

Thanks for your valuable time!
This blog was launched at the end of July 2016
aiming to provide stories for open-minded
people who enjoy living on the edge of their lives,
stepping out of comfort zones, going on adventure,
doing extreme sports and embracing the new.
Welcome to the too-much-energy-blog!

PS: Don't forget that this is a troll-free zone.

Original content. Quote found on yourdictionary.com.

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Oh, NO, Sweetie! :O

I can't believe I missed this news until now. I'm so sorry to hear about your pain. :(

"...the maximum penalty: no surfing!"

Wow, I know that feeling! :O
That is the worst part of any injury! ;)

Hey, I would like to send you a rebuilt/refurbished SILVERengines proton—the colloidal silver maker that I created—if you would be willing only to cover the shipping expense?

You really need to have a ready source of colloidal silver on hand to speed your healing, and to keep pathogens at bay...

You can read all about our machines here: http://SILVERengines.com

Please let me know if you would like one? PM me on chat or DISCORD if you like... It hurts me to think of you at risk of infection...! :(

😄😇😄

@creatr

Hey my dear friend!
The good news is: I'm in the water again :-)

Still with a bandage, but at least I'm standing on my board feeling the wave!

Of course I'd love to receive a rebuilt SILVERengines proton!! You are just too kind :-) I'll get in contact with you in the steemit.chat since I'm not using discord.

Big hugs my surfing friend :-*

"The good news is: I'm in the water again :-)"

Yaaaayy!!! :) :) :) Very glad to hear that, and thanks for the photo proof! :D

I'll hook up with you on chat; all I'll need is a shipping address. I have no idea what shipping to your beautiful island will cost, but after I actually ship it I will know.

Take care, dear, and Merry Christmas! :) Big hugs right back at'cha... ;)

I love this post. I relate to the "risk" of freedom on many levels.

I've started businesses with no money. People advise that you should have a year or two living expenses saved up before starting a new business. That would be great but I think it's horrible advice because the need for security creates a barrier to entry that would prevent most people from ever exploring their potential freedom.

In the next few weeks, I'm buying a box truck, moving 100% of my possessions into it, and hitting the road. I have only "secured" about 40% of my needed location-independent income, but I'm moving forward anyway. I know that I'm capable, and that the freedom will be worth the risks.

Upvoted and resteemed. Good stuff!

Hey @layl! Thanks for sharing your story, it seems that we're sharing the very same spirit :-)
When it comes to money I'm not the best risk taker to be honest. It's rather an adrenaline seeking issue related to sports. I did bungee jumping and sky diving for instance - these are the things that keep me vital in the end...

It's weird that I haven't been following your blog already since you're also one of the early adopters being on steemit since August 2016. Anyways, now I follow you :-)

Best of luck for your new adventure, it sounds amazing!

Damn, you actually got quite lucky there! 14 years ago, I've torn my "Posterior Cruciate Ligament" in my left knee, in a similar accident on the Football-Field. It took me 3 years, 2 operations, and a weight gain of around 25 kg before I returned back to the Football-Field. So you have to stay safe Marly! ;-)
I wish you a good recovery, and a soon return to the waters!

Greetings,

Pele23

Oh damn, that sounds quite heavy! Literally heavy...
I'm not planning on following your example and really hope to recover veeeery soon :-)
Thanks for your wishes!

I was heavy back then, incredibly fat. I ate like I was used to, because I trained like 4 times a week, and at least one game... Then suddenly, I was deprived of any sport or fysical activity whatsoever...
I blew up like a balloon, it was nuts... Luckily, I have lost most of them now... ;-)

Ich wünsche dir von Herzen gute Besserung, damit du möglichst schnell wieder ohne Schmerzen auf deinem Brettl stehen kannst.
Glücklicherweise hatte die Hose schon vor dem Sturz einen Riss am Knie.

Hahaha, ja vlt. waren die Löcher am Knie der Grund dafür, dass der Sturz nicht so gut abgefedert wurde. Das hat man davon, wenn man die Mode-Trends mitmacht :-P

Lieben Dank für Deine Worte!
Es heilt gemächlich... ich werde wohl noch ein paar Tage ausfallen.

You are probably "suffering" more, because you can not surf, then by physical pain. It is awesome to have personal freedom. I am not into adrenaline a lot, but I like to do, what I WANT instead doing what everyone else is doing.

You are probably "suffering" more, because you can not surf, then by physical pain.

100% agreed! :-)
I like your way of thinking. Following your own path is definitely a good choice.

I admire the adrenaline crowd, I really do.
I am more of an easy going, take it easy, slow down kind of person, not really into Disneyland nonetheless still feel free as you but that's the diversity of our world, can you imagine if everyone was full of adrenaline?

The adrenaline crowd, ha - I liked that term.
You are completely right: it has to be balanced. People need to complement one another, that's what makes relationships even more interesting :-)
Thanks for stopping by!

Yikes. Hope you're alright. Neat capture though :') Love the slomo!

Hey Shannon! Thanks for stopping by. I'm doing fine. Just a bit grouchy since I can't surf, haha!
If it wasn't my knee, I'd love the slomo, too - lol :-D

Ah, well I am assuming you can surf soon right? :o

Ouch. I hope that it heals quickly. Knees can be funny things and give you grief.

I think I already lived the funniest part :-) That was when the adrenaline decreased and I felt the real pain of the injury. Now it's getting better every day.
Thanks for stopping by, Stephen!

The body works in mysterious ways. I remember when I was a little kid I rode my tricycle down a big hill and almost made it to the bottom. Almost!!! Crashed big time and took skin off everywhere. I got up and ran towards home but only made it about 100m before collapsing in a pile of screaming tears.

Wish you quick recovery and good waves, @surfermarly :)

Thanks a lot! Currently I'm not checking the wave forecast just in case there were some good ones I'd miss :-)

I think your attitude about living life's to its limits is wonderful. You may get hurt but you will always have adventure and fulfillment.

I hope your knee heals swiftly so you can get beck out to your beloved sea.

I appreciate your words and wishes! That's my point: fulfillment :-)
Next week I'll be able to laugh about it...

It's true, these things make some of the best stories :) And next week the waves will be brighter and better because you missed them.

Hehe, that's a nice way to look at it :-)

There is no absolute security in life,

I totally agree! ("Das Leben ist lebensgefährlich!" - Erich Kästner)

keep it up!

Erich Kästner fand ich schon als Kind toll.
Super Zitat, Danke :-)

dann hatten deine Eltern eine pädagogisch wertvolle Bibliothek!

Ouch, I hope you'll heal fast! Must be sad to put your surfing on hold. Get well soon!

Thank you very much!! Not being able to surf hurts most, yip :-)

Sorry. Hope the injury heals soon. Don't be tempted to surf ;)

Thank you @jaff8!
Seems that you know me well :-)) First thing in the morning is checking the injury and thinking may I paddle out today?
Then I imagine the consequences and dismiss it...

Lol I know you really love what you do. It is a spirit I respect.

I wish you a quick recovery Marly! How people say: what doesn't kill you makes you stronger :) And it's completely about you! You are very strong woman so i have no doubts that you will be okay soon:)

what doesn't kill you makes you stronger :)

Yeah, that's the spirit!
Thanks for your wishes, @olgy-art

Hope you can recover quickly so that you can go back and enjoy your surfing.
But for now, I guess you have to relax and maybe you can still enjoy doing other things for now till you heal.

I'm not very good at waiting, but I'll have to...:-)
Thanks for your wishes!

I always convince my self that the salt water will accelerate the healing so that there are very few reasons not to be in the water. But then again I snort sea water as a medicinal. (Of course not if there's an algae bloom ;-)
If you knee paddle it would be tough though but that practice seems pretty uncommon these days with the shorter boards.
But do take care of yourself and heal quick.

It's too early. Salty water may have a healing effect, but the water will also re-open the wound and slow down the whole process. Haha, I don't knee paddle, but how do you think people get up on their feet on the surfboard? You pull up one knee (while it slightly scrapes over the board) and then you pull the other one forward. Both knees might get in contact with the surface of the board which is usually a sharp-edged mixed of wax and sand. It's like sandpaper and I really don't want to pass my open knee over sandpaper right now - lol.

I'll get that knee fixed and then I'll be back in the water soon :-)

Here you can see how it works:

Since I'm goofy (right foot in front), for me it's the other way around. As you can see the injured (right) knee would get in touch with the board before popping up.
In my current situation that would be very painful though...:-)

I'm goofy footed too!

Oh, you surf? Then it's weird that you asked me about the knee :-) How do you manage to pop up without touching the board?

Like you I don't, usually. I just hurt. When I learned to surf it was the days of big boards for every waves and we all paddled on our knees. We got knots but that was a badge of honour. They'd swell and bleed and hurt like hell but we were vain and stupid. Ah youth! Anyway along came the short boards and my knots eventually disappeared.

OMG. Then you are the real adventurer here! Haha

Good news is that my knees still work. Get better soon! We love your posts.

@surfermarly you are a really big risk taker, your ankle must really hurt badly i hope you will get well soon

Good post, I am a photographer, it passes for my blog and sees my content, I hope that it should be of your taste, you have my vote :D greetings

Do take care @surfermarly and get well the soonest

Huggs 💗

Get better soon! leg injuries are no beuno.

excellent post ..loving to your blog.thanks for sharing..

If your not living on the edge, your taking up too much space!...lol As long as its within safe boundaries.. I guess. Adventure on!

So motivational

A scar is better than an award for safety.