The swell this winter has been lazy if not non-existent - most of the coast, named for it's surf, worries this is the new pattern now. Easterlies, unusual for this time of year, have disrupted the normally straight, huge swells that sweep through in the cold, cold days from June through to August. So when there's swell, everyone is buzzing - driving and walking, tugging on too-dry wetsuits from lay days, messaging each other, wondering where to surf, if you've surfed, what the wind will do to it in the arvo, what the rest of the week is like.
For me, it's too big - three foot is my limit, and even then it has to be uncrowded so there's less chance of injuries and collision. This swell has been the wrong direction and a little small for the more sheltered beaches, and too big for the places I normally surf - it's either closing out or too big, so instead, I watch for a long time, and then go walking. It's still beautiful, even if I'm not out there. There's an electric buzz in the air.
As I walk along the cliff tops watching the sets roll in and the water move toward the beach as the tide gets high, I'm practicing my breathing - or lack of it, trying to increase my co2 tolerance. I tend to gulp air when I'm walking fast - a symptom of being asthmatic. As soon as I feel out of breath I start to mouth breath, which I know isn't good for me - it lowers in the CO2 levels in the body and I need a healthy level of co2 for healthy gas exchange with oxygen. Too much oxygen doesn't serve me.
As I walk toward Winki Pop I'm kinda glad I don't surf big waves - there's some sixty people out in the water, little black dots all scrambling for a wave. It's been busy here of late - back to back longboard surfing comps so there's a lot of great longboarding going on, which I watch for a while as I try to regulate my breath.
I've always thought co2 was bad - but like anything, it's about balance. It's so important for steady breathing and endurance. I take solace from the fact even superstar athletes across time have mouth breathed or not breathed efficiently, and try not to be frustrated that I'm only now learning about it. It kinda goes agasint what I've always been taught - but you want to increase your bodies tolerance to co2 - breath holds, nasal breathing and so on. Even when I'm walking I need to breath through my mouth. At first it's awfully, awfully uncomfortable - my body screams for oxygen, as if I can't breath. But I know the science of it - I'm not going to die, and have plenty of oxygen in my system. So I just sit with it - or walk with it along the cliffs.
I'm not just doing this because breath is the new buzz for health. I'm doing it because I know it will help my asthma, and it will calm my nervous system. It also helps decrease inflammation and increased physical and mental energy - and maybe even extend my life expectancy. There's a lot of research now about the benefits of co2 tolerance and anxiety - and I'm convinced that's my issue - this big messy problem I have with my breath, asthma and anxiety.
So as I walk, I breath only through my nose. It's as tidal as the sea. In, out, in, out. The breath following the rhythms of nature. 5.5 in, 5.5 out, 5.5 in, 5.5 out. Before long I'm not fighting the desire to gulp in air at all - I'm climbing steps effortlessly, the pain in my lungs and the panic gone.
Maybe all this breathwork will help me get out into some bigger surf one of these days.
With Love,
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My experience with pranayama yoga leaves little doubt of the calming power of the breath. CO2 tolerance is probably part of it, yet it has never been explained to me before now.
It's really worth looking into. Highly recommend James Nestor's book Breath. It backed up everything I knew about pranayama but was never explained properly by science. For example, the yogis said we had a finite amount of breaths in a lifetime. Literally, didn't quite make sense. Scientifically, slower breathing and longer exhales are better for health. Thus, less breaths = more lifetime? And the Tibetans had toomo breath (that Wim Hof arguably stole) which increased their body temperature to withstand cold - hence why The Iceman can icebath. The breath is so fascinating when you really get into it!
That is very cool to have the yogis' claims backed up with science. While hanging out with Tibetan monks in France in the '70s they spoke of being able to withstand the cold through breath. At the time it had to be taken, simply, on faith. There was a pose which involved working ones hands up along the spaces between ones ribs; leaning to left and right each rib level and using breath. It seemed to work on a subjective level, yet it is cool to hear scientific explanations for it as well. 😎👍
Great insights on breathwork! It's amazing how something so simple can make such a big difference in managing asthma and anxiety. Keep it up, and who knows, you might be out there surfing those big waves soon! 😀😀
Thankyou. Even if I don't, I am hoping I'll just be healthier anyway.
Sure, your health will surely be restored.
Nice...I miss surfing. Landlocked since january 😩
What! Where are you! Surf wasn't great our whole travels. I thought you'd moved to Portugal? Forgot all about looking you up whilst there. We got two little surfs just north of Nazare.
Im in germany since april this year. I was in australia until january but then life changed dramatically...again. Will be back in Portugal from Oct Nov on and finally back in the water.
Hope everything is ok.
It's great that you surf, I've always wanted to, but I still haven't fully got past my near drowning, when I was a child.
Always do what you are comfortable with.
The breath, damn but we have so much to learn from it. Love when you share your wisdom xxx
HOnestly if you can listen to the book Breath by James Nestor - it's so good!
Ah, near drowning! I didn't know that. That's bound to make things tricky - yet you love the water as well. It's possible to surf comfortably in quite small waves with no threat to your life, don't worry.