It's great that you surf, I've always wanted to, but I still haven't fully got past my near drowning, when I was a child.
Always do what you are comfortable with.
The breath, damn but we have so much to learn from it. Love when you share your wisdom xxx
HOnestly if you can listen to the book Breath by James Nestor - it's so good!
Ah, near drowning! I didn't know that. That's bound to make things tricky - yet you love the water as well. It's possible to surf comfortably in quite small waves with no threat to your life, don't worry.