In my previous article, I talked about the Ile de la Désirade, a truly picturesque and authentic place, and I'm sure I'll be returning there on my next trip to Guadeloupe, making sure to stay there on weekends, from Thursday to Sunday for example, to enjoy a bit of entertainment.
Our next step was to return to Haute-Terre via Saint-François and Morne-A-l'Eau, with the goal of discovering the mangrove swamp of the Grand Cul-de-Sac marin.
The Grand Cul-de-Sac Marin is a 15,000-hectare lagoon in the north of Guadeloupe, bordering Haute-Terre and Basse-Terre, and protected as a nature reserve.
It's shallow and mangroves are part of its ecosystem, enabling the creation of new ilets, but only part of it is protected.
This is a pity, as the mangrove is a very effective natural protection against bad weather such as cyclones and their consequences.
Another benefit of the mangrove is that it provides protection for animals: it's a veritable nursery for fish and home to numerous birds.
Before our mangrove excursion, we slept in Morne-à-l'Eau, which has a unique cemetery whose tombs are decorated with black and white checkerboard patterns, giving a striking effect as you can see in the photos.
It's one of the 10 most beautiful cemeteries on the planet.
We also went to Petit-Canal, a site commemorating slavery with a grand staircase (la marche aux esclaves), a former prison overgrown with vegetation, including a gigantic black fig tree, and street art.
The visit to the mangrove swamp of the Grand Cul-de-Sac Marin departed from Petit Bourg aboard VTT des mers, a kind of pedal boat with a propeller whose depth can be adjusted, making it quieter and faster.
The ornithologist guide gave us invaluable information on mangroves, fauna and the ecosystem.
We took a lunch break on a small beach and saw a large starfish and a salt pond.
In particular, we learned that there are several types of mangrove: red, black and white. They are not the same species (it's a generic name) and are adapted to different conditions.
The ones in the water are the red ones, the others are on land, and they all have different strategies for surviving in an environment where they have to fight salt.
I remember one in particular that uses sacrificial leaves: a leaf soaks up salt, becomes thick and yellow, then dies and falls off so that the tree can survive, and another takes its place to play this role.
During the walk, we collected mangrove seeds - these are tall, green stems - and planted them on an ilet to help it grow and retain the sand, so that the mangrove will continue to thrive.
At the end of the day, we watched the birds (and the sun) set on another ilet.
Herons, pelicans and frigate birds.
I'd said I'd talk more about the frigate birds I first encountered on Désirade. These birds have the particularity of feeding exclusively on fish, but they don't have waterproof plumage like other seabirds, so they risk their lives by fishing, because if they get wet they become too heavy to fly.
So they stay close to trees where they can take refuge to dry out, or simply harass other birds to steal their fish.
If you're going to Guadeloupe, I highly recommend this eco-responsible excursion that I took with Bel'Mangrov.
Translated with DeepL.com (free version)
Mangrove
Morne-à-l'Eau
Morne-à-l'Eau
Petit Canal
Petit Canal
Petit Canal
Petit Bourg
Dans mon article précédent, j'ai parlé de l'Ile de la Désirade, c'est un endroit vraiment pittoresque et authentique, j'y retournerai surement lors d'un prochain voyage en Guadeloupe, en faisant attention d'y séjourner en fin de semaine, du jeudi au dimanche par exemple pour profiter d'un peu d'animation.
Notre étape suivante a consisté à revenir sur Haute-Terre en Passant par Saint-François et à nous rendre à Morne-A-l'Eau avec comme objectif de découvrir la mangrove du Grand Cul-de-Sac marin.
Le grand cul de sac marin est une sorte de grand lagon de 15000 hectares au nord de la Guadeloupe qui borde Haute-Terre et Basse-Terre et qui est protégé au titre de réserve naturelle.
Il est peu profond et la mangrove fait partie de son écosystème, elle permet la création de nouveaux ilets, mais seulement une partie de celle ci est protégée.
C'est dommage car la mangrove est une protection naturelle très efficace contre les intempéries comme les cyclones et leurs conséquences.
Un autre intérêt de la mangrove est qu'elle assure une protection pour les animaux, c'est une véritable nurserie pour les poissons et elle abrite aussi de nombreux oiseaux.
Avant notre excursion dans la mangrove, nous avons dormi à Morne-à-l'Eau qui a un cimetière singulier dont les tombes sont décorées de damiers noirs et blancs, ce qui donne un effet saisissant comme vous pouvez voir sur les photos.
Il fait partie des 10 plus beaux cimetières de la planète.
Nous sommes allés aussi à Petit-Canal qui est un site de commémoration de l'esclavage avec un grand escalier (la marche aux esclaves), une ancienne prison envahie par la végétation dont un gigantesque figuier noir et du street art.
La visite de la mangrove du grand Cul-de-Sac marin s'est effectuée au départ de Petit Bourg à bord de VTT des mers, une sorte de pédalos avec une hélice dont on peut régler la profondeur, c'est plus silencieux et plus rapide.
Le guide ornithologue nous a donné des informations précieuses sur les palétuviers, la faune et l'écosystème, il était passionné et passionnant.
Nous avons fait une pause déjeuner sur une petite plage et vu une grosse étoile de mer et une mare salée.
Nou savons appris en particulier qu'il existe plusieurs sortes de palétuviers, rouges, noirs, blancs, ils ne sont pas de la même espèce (c'est un nom générique) et sont adaptés à des conditions différentes.
Ceux qui sont dans l'eau sont les rouges, les autres sont sur terre et ils ont tous des stratégies différentes pour survivre dans un environnement où ils doivent combattre le sel.
Je me rappelle d'un en particulier qui utilise des feuilles sacrificielles, une feuille se gorge de sel, devient épaisse et jaune puis meurt et tombe afin que l'arbre survive, et une autre prend sa place pour jouer ce rôle.
Durant la promenade nous avons récupéré des graines de palétuviers, ce sont ces grandes tiges vertes, et nous les avons plantées sur un ilet afin qu'il s'agrandisse en retenant le sable et que la mangrove continue de prospérer.
En fin de journée nous avons pu assister au coucher des oiseaux (et du soleil) sur un autre ilet.
Les hérons garde bœufs, les pélicans et les frégates.
J'avais dit que je reparlerai des frégates que j'ai rencontré la première fois à la Désirade. Ces oiseaux ont la particularité de se nourrir exclusivement de poissons, mais n'ont pas un plumage étanche comme les autres oiseaux de mer, ils risquent leur vie en pêchant car si ils se mouillent ils deviennent trop lourds pour voler.
Ainsi ils restent près des arbres où ils peuvent se réfugier pour sécher ou plus simplement ils harcèlent les autres oiseaux afin de leur voler leur poissons.
Si vous allez en Guadeloupe je vous conseille vivement cette excursion éco responsable que j'ai effectué avec Bel'Mangrov.
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I heard about Guadeloupe from the game I played in my teenage years, and after that, I remember my aunt giving me a stamp collection from there. But, unfortunately, I never visited this beautiful island. Seeing your photo and the story about the cemetery and the mangrove, I would really like to see that with my own eyes and experience that cool paddle-boat trip!!
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this island really deserves a trip, and I think I'll go back again,
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