My own brother moved to Glasgow and worked as a chef in a restaurant for years.
He worked for pay.
When he decided to open his restaurant, he told me: "Ginally I should rest a bit".
"My little brother, I'm sorry, but as a private business owner, you won't rest. Unfortunately, you'll be working even more, and you'll also be doing things you didn't even know existed - bookkeeping, purchasing goods for food preparation, looking for and hiring staff, sick days , injuries, loans, salaries...".
It turns out I was right. The only thing is that when he works full time, he earns a lot more than when he worked for a salary. And that's why he decided to work as hard as he could. because when he works, he has a good profit.
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You're right, it's a pay-off between more (endless) work and worry but there (usually) comes an increased income along with it, maybe not immediately but if the right work is done often enough things will work out.
Chef's work so hard whether they work for someone or own the business, not a job I'd like to have - One must be quite passionate I think.