I can relate to a lot of what you said here. I still remember days of surfing from years ago when everything comes together to make the perfect waves. I remember trying to learn to surf as a young teenager. But I started with a short board without an instructor. It was frustrating at first but once I stood up I never went back.
You are viewing a single comment's thread from:
Oh I can imagine how you felt... In the beginning it's very frustrating, no matter how long or short your board is. Well probably you would have done better with one of these huge soft boards, too. But anyways, the first step always hurts a lot.
So you don't practice surfing anymore?
I still surf almost daily if there are waves. I am a bit obessive about it and it is is hard for me to mantain balance like you mentioned. Sometimes I surf for 8 hours straight.
8 hours straight?!? Are you kidding? I've never met a person who's able to do that... Wow! So where do you surf?
Mainly in the Santa Barbara/Goleta area. I ride my bike to the beach in about 5 minutes with surfboard under my arm.
Oh that sounds perfect to me! I'm happy for you π
I've been to Santa Barbara once and loved the ambient.